This is a photo diary of my costuming "travels"; where I've learned and struggled to make historical costumes for myself. They're not always pretty, but always fun. most of the time. And I want to share with others what I learn along the way. **You can find me on Facebook, or have my posts delivered to your email by signing up at the lower part of the right column.**



About Me

My photo
HI, my name is Val. I'm a member of Costumer's Guild West in Los Angeles, member & Past President of the San Diego Costume Guild, member of Orange County Costume Guild, a representative of the San Diego History Center, & an honorary member of SITU (Someplace in Time, Unlimited) in Seattle. I make my own historical costumes but don't sell any unless I get tired of one.The eras I've made so far are 1770 up to 1918. My favorite is the 1880s bustle.

Followers

Tuesday, December 26, 2017

End of the Year 2017 Review

At the end of December, I try to get a post done on reviewing what I accomplished in my costuming each year. It’s to be my final post so I can send the entire years’ worth of posts to be printed into a book.
My goal used to be to have a dress of every decade I like, and something for day and evening. I’m close to that. But it doesn’t stop there. Now I want to try different designs for the decades. And the different seasons. So, you see where that leads? It never ends. I have a folder of umpteen number of dresses I’d like to make. At least it keeps me from getting bored. 
I didn’t make that many dresses this year, as I was able to re-use some made previously. But wasn’t that the plan? I made it a little easier on myself this year by choosing to do a variety of 1890’s shirtwaists, to wear with a couple different colored skirts. These were primarily for Costume College, which made it SOOO much easier to get a couple outfits to wear.
But let’s go back to the beginning of the year where I had finished my 1885 re-creation of an Emile Pingat dress that I got to wear to a couple events this year. First was the fashion show at Riverside Dickens in February, then reprised it for another show in Port Townsend, WA. And finally, at Costume College for the Gala dinner. 



Also worn starting in Port Townsend, WA, then a DAR presentation, was my 1894 Brown & Teal Polka Dot dress. I love the color combinations, and it was a lot of fun to wear.
 


Then I started my marathon of sewing for Costume College, of 1894 shirtwaists and skirts, and a special mini-theme 1890s outfit for our Ladies Pinkerton Detective Agency.  I wanted something simple but fun to wear the first day, and made a shirtwaist from a white cotton with black scissors design on it, with a black skirt. My other version was for the science fiction themed Sunday Tea, and I used a Jetson’s cartoon fabric for the blouse. Finally, my Pinkerton outfit, following a design the group leaders came up with, was a simple white blouse, red velvet vest, and a grey skirt. Fairly easy but the vest caused everyone a lot of consternation. Dealing with velvet was not a job for the weak, either. 

 
 




When I started working on my Victorian Fancy Dress for next year’s Costume College Sunday Tea theme, I had to finish it earlier than expected to wear it in a fashion show in October, where the theme was the same thing. My dress was The Chess Game, and I reused an earlier 1830's black dress for it.
And finally, a dress I started last Summer, and had to set aside, was finished this month. I’m way ahead of the game for the Riverside Dickens Festival’s fashion show next February. I can’t wait to wear it, and try it on with my pink and white bonnet.
 


So that’s it; seven new outfits, although I find it hard to count those simple 1890s shirtwaists and skirts as much work.
I’m already starting out, before the year ends, with my next dress for Costume College, as I’m expecting it will require a lot of work, and one thing I love, hand sewing trims on. Lots of it! This Thursday I’ll be going to one of Shelley Peters’ open house sewing workshops in Nuevo, and get started on that.
                                                    See you in the New Year!


                                                                   ~~~Val~~~


Thursday, December 21, 2017

1855 SHEER MOSSY GREEN DRESS

The moment I bought this very sheer cotton voile with its mossy green flowers, I knew I wanted to make a froofy dress. And I wanted it to a bustle dress, right out of a James Tissot painting. 

The fabric sat in my shelf for about two years, and then one day I saw this dress on Facebook, by Prior Attire aka The Victorian Dressmaker. 
This dress had all the froofy-ness I wanted for my fabric. I followed her blog and found many more close-up details of it.  I can’t find the link directly to this dress but she has many other wonderful things on it.  And she’s currently working on a book, called The Victorian Dressmaker. https://adamselindisdress.blog/author/adamselindisdress/  


I saved various versions of sheer dresses from this time period, and gathered ideas I wanted for mine, like ruffles on the sleeves, and a V-neckline. 




One of the identifiers of the dresses from this 1850s time period is the multi-tiered skirts. It can be from two tiers up to six. I was limited by the amount of fabric I had, and used a plain white cotton for its base, with rows of the ruffled fabric. I saved making my sleeves for last because at that point I didn’t know how much I would have when all was done. At one point I thought I was going to have to use a white sheer for them.
I began searching for a bodice pattern that had a V-neck and a peplum. I came up with Period Impressions #405 and bought that one. It looked fairly simple. But it was evil. I purchased the size I needed for my measurements, but it was about 2 sizes too large. I had taken it to a sewing workshop for help and we ended up almost creating a new pattern. When I finally got around to sewing the peplum on it, the drawings didn’t match what the patterns looked like. 
After all this trouble, my workshop teacher, Shelley Peters, asked me why I didn’t use the short white jacket version from McCall’s #5132, which I already had. Duh. Too late now.

In one blog, I found this statement, “Cotton dresses were very, very rarely made with a pagoda sleeve. In fact, they are so rare they are basically non-existent. However, sheer cottons are frequently made into pagodas, and are frequently worn without undersleeves. Pagoda sleeves were very popular in the 1850s, and begin to diminish as the 60s progressed”.  http://southroncreations.blogspot.com/2015/05/how-to-choose-civil-war-fabric.html    I’m not sure I agree with that. But I didn’t want to make pagoda sleeves, so I used a sleeve off one of my Truly Victorian patterns. I liked the ruffled shorter sleeves on this 1850s dress. But my fabric amount was very limited so in the end, mine only ended up with one ruffle. 
I started on the bodice first and when it was all constructed, I added self-piping along the bottom of the peplum, and armholes. Considering how sheer the fabric is, I thought it needed some extra strength. And I converted the closed neckline on it to a V-neck by folding the edges under. 

When I started the skirt, I first decided to use the method of just tearing panels and sewing them together for the base. And here was mistake #2. I had written to tear 4 panels. Which might have been fine but my white fabric was 60” wide, so it was HUGE. And long. Somehow, I also cut them too long by about two feet. I got as far as that in the first workshop, and went home to work on the tiers. We decided it was easier to use the Truly Victorian pattern #241 for the tiers since it gave me the measurements to make them and instructions to attach them to the base. But I had to set it aside at that time to work on finishing a couple dresses for Costume College 2016 at the end of July. 
Now here we were in November where I finally had time to get back to it. And I had a deadline for it next February for the Riverside Dickens fashion show. That always helps put a fire under me. I went to another of Shelley Peters’ workshops to get help with the skirt. I struggled trying to get those tiers on correctly. Apparently if I’d used the TV pattern, it would have me marking the panels to pin the tiers on. I had started this backwards: sewing the panels together, and then trying to figure out how to level them, along with my first time of hemming the skirt first, then pulling it up to my waist to get the correct length and cartridge-pleating it to a waistband. I had decided to go with four tiers, the first one being not so full but not flat, due to the limited amount of fabric I had. I started by measuring up from the hem the length of the bottom tier and making pencil marks on the white underskirt where I would be sewing it. Then repeated that going up for each tier. I first worried I didn’t make them long enough to reach the ground. But thankfully even after putting on my hoops and full multi-tiered petticoat, it worked out. I had very little overhang of each tier though. In retrospect, I should have sewn the tiers on above each line. The white underskirt peeps out in a few places. I may have sewn a few areas not quite on the lines. I added “miles” of green ribbon to the edges of the ruffles to make them stand out more. 
And speaking of my multi-tiered petticoat, I thought I was going to have to make one for this, because all I had was a two tiered one I used under my 1860s dresses. While looking through some of my photos of my costume accessories, I saw this photo of a multi-tiered petticoat I had apparently made for another 1850s dress the previous year. So, I had to dig around in my armoire where I store all my petticoats and bustles/hoops, and found it jammed in the back. It was made of a cotton fabric that was a bit heavy, and when I tried it on, I saw why I had thrown it in the back. I had made the waistband too big and it almost crossed over in the back, along with all those ruffles. I must have been going crazy sewing all those ruffles. But with the full skirt I’m working on, that’s not a problem, although at some point I may reduce it. But for now, we’re good. 
Did I mention how incredibly sheer my fabric is? You can barely tell the front from the back. I have to rip a hem out of one row of ruffles when I sewed the hem wrong, and had to remove one of the tiered ruffles when I realized it was wrong side out. I finally started pinning little tags on the tiers to make sure I was getting the front and back sewn on right.  And man, the sleeves! TWICE I sewed the sides together wrong.
After putting the green ribbon on the ruffles, this fashion print gave me the idea of adding it to the sleeves too. And using a pink bonnet I had. 

I finally finished the skirt and could try it on to see if it all worked. It was long enough, and everything seemed to line up Ok. My bodice is a bit plain though. I was going to make a white chemisette for the V-neck but decided to sew some white eyelet along the inside of the neckline. 

I couldn’t find any buttons I liked at two fabric stores, and needed to have some so I could make my buttonholes and finish the doggone thing. I ended up using some small domed buttons I had and covered them with some of the green ribbon. They’re a little bulky but for now they work, and I can button the bodice. And I think it needs a green bow on it now. That top is really plain. 
I have an easy fix for my bonnet. I already have one. This pretty pink and cream one, that I may add a little rosette or leaves of green ribbon to it.   
I have no plans to wear this until near the end of February at the Riverside Dickens Festival fashion show. Considering we usually get warm weather then, this should be pretty comfortable to wear. And maybe I’ll find some buttons I like better by that time.
                                                      ~~Val~~

















Wednesday, November 15, 2017

Researching an Idea: 1870s Princess-style Dresses (1876-79)

Last year this 1875 dress caught my eye, and I immediately wanted to make it, as all us Squirrels tend to do. At first it looked like it was all one piece, with the Princess seam lines down the front. I loved the inset piece of contrasting fabric down the center front. I could see a lot of ideas that would work with it, with different fabrics and trims.
I started by cropping a smaller view of the bodice area, and then noticed something. It wasn’t all one piece, it was a long bodice over a skirt but well designed to draw the eye down. I could see at the bottom of the row of buttons that it was cut off there. That was an awfully long bodice. 

I began to gather my fabrics I could use for making it. I’d love to do the brown floral silk here but haven’t found a good solid color for it yet. I had a lot of the teal silk taffeta, so I found a matching Chinese brocade on etsy for it. That was supposed to be made last year but I got backed up making something else. And so on. 

But then I came across another seemingly all-one-piece dress, and this time it really was. In looking close-up, I wasn’t seeing a separation of bodice and skirt. So, voila we have a Princess-line dress. I noticed the same look in some wrappers but there was a difference. A Princess-line dress is entirely long panels of fabric that are seamed all the way down to the bottom of the hem. The wrappers only had darts that fitted it closely to the waist so it looked similar. 

So now I wanted to find out more about these dresses because I found THIS fashion print and now have the fabric  and black lace to make it. 

And just what is a Princess-line, or Princess dress? They are associated with Charles Frederick Worth, who introduced them in the early 1870s in honor of Princess Alexandra of Wales. And if it looks like the Natural Form dresses, you’re right. Because those were all the rage up to 1880. They were very popular for the young girls too. I had actually saved a photo of Princess Alexandra to my folder showing one of these dresses, not even thinking of Worth or it being attributed to her. But she had the body for it.

There was even a “house dress Polonaise cut in a Princess shape” (1878). I guess everyone was jumping on the bandwagon. But this one kind of goes back to my original pursuit of the long Basque bodice over a skirt-look.
So getting back to what I thought was my idea for a Princess dress (oh my, that sounds lovely), it turned out most of the ones I liked LOOKED like Princess lines but weren’t really. It was an optical illusion.
REAL PRINCESS LINE:


NOT REAL:



I didn’t like the Natural Form look on me the one time I made it. The long droopy apron in the front was just not flattering on me. But I’m liking the busy-ness of all that stuff in the middle, and you can add ruffles and bows and all kinds of stuff.
But there’s no patterns out there right now for this look. So I need to cobble something together.  I think I can use the back of the Truly Victorian tea gown #432 for the Watteau train I want, but to get the front will require a little more work. 

I need to first decide will I make it all one length, aka Princess line, or go with the Basque bodice over the skirt version? I figured I could lengthen Truly Victorian’s Bodice #225, but I would want to cut out a square neckline on it. Then I could use their skirt #225 with just a train. And yes, trains in the 70s was a thing.
                                                                 TV 423                                                          
TV 225
These are going into my “Make Me”, aka “The Squirrel’s Play Box”, planning file for when I can manage to slip them in between other dresses I still want to make. It’s not a priority at the moment but I have the fabric, and the idea, so all I need is to add a pinch of time.

                                             Decisions, decisions. 
~~~Val~~~